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Earlier this month, I packed up my gear and headed west for the fossiliferous desert of central Nevada. It was my first expedition of the summer — a search for marine reptiles the size of whales that paddled through the ocean more than 200 million years ago. The dust of previous field seasons remained on most of my field gear — a sturdy tent, a cozy sleeping bag, sunscreen, hand tools — but before setting out this time I double-checked to make sure I’d remembered two additions. These were oestradiol and spironolactone, hormones commonly used in male-to-female transitions. Being in the middle of a juniper-studded desert, I wouldn’t have easy access to the drugs.
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