Abstract
RECENT investigations by the Admiralty have shown that storm waves and the swell that leaves the storm area are composed of a mixture of wave-trains, the wave-lengths of which range from a few feet up to a maximum which depends on the greatest wind strength, and may be as much as 3,000 feet. It seems remarkable that such component wave-trains should travel independently across the ocean, and that all except the very shortest should be recognizable after travelling thousands of miles; but such close agreement with theory has been demonstrated, and the component wave-trains have been found to advance across the ocean with the theoretical velocities appropriate to their lengths.
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Coastal waves *. Nature 162, 682–684 (1948). https://doi.org/10.1038/162682a0
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DOI: https://doi.org/10.1038/162682a0