Most science-minded children don't dream of a career studying shampoo or designing deodorant. But for many scientists who make the personal-care and cosmetics industry their intellectual playground, applying a knowledge of molecules and cells to making people smell and look good is rewarding as it is a way to craft products that the general public appreciates. Of course, there are downsides. The push to release new products and the tricky regulatory landscape can be onerous at times. And those hoping to return to academia one day may have difficulty.

Credit: ILLUSTRATIONS BY KIRSTEN ULVE/CORBIS

And then there are the sneers from other researchers who don't exactly have the utmost respect for cosmetics research. “My peers think that it's a big joke that I do cosmetics,” says Robert Lochhead, professor of polymer science in the school of polymers and high-performance materials at the University of Southern Mississippi, and president of the industry organization the Society of Cosmetic Chemists (SCC). Often, he says, those critics speak out of ignorance, not understanding the real science that goes on.

"We're partnering more and more with academics on research." - Steve Shiel

Steve Shiel, scientific director of global hair care and grooming at Proctor & Gamble (P&G) Beauty and Grooming, recalls how, early in his career, his colleagues in big pharma said he was wasting his scientific training on make-up. He disagrees, suggesting that the technical challenges in, say, the chemistry of hair care often resemble those in pharmaceuticals.

What are these challenges? In the hope of repairing or maintaining hair health, scientists such as Shiel are trying to understand the process by which hair grows, its three-dimensional protein structure and its chemical and physical properties. Cosmetic chemists also work on maintaining product stability. “Most cosmetic products have things in the bottle that don't want to be together, such as oil and water. By thermodynamics, they want to separate,” notes Randall Wickett, director of the cosmetic science programme at the University of Cincinnati and vice-president of the SCC. But a product — such as shampoo, mascara or moisturizer — has to remain stable inside its container without separating for up to five years and in harsh environmental conditions, such as freezing weather.

Such challenges suggest that cosmetic science is a science like any other, says Mary Conway, R&D director of hair-care development for US Schwarzkopf & Henkel. “There's a lot of innovation,” Conway says, noting the potential to make frequent discoveries that contribute to new products. At P&G, for example, researchers designed an electrostatic spray to ensure liquid make-up is applied uniformly. Another team, studying the chemistry and surface properties of mascara and lashes, helped develop a plastic mascara brush that delivers an even flow and limits clumps. Conway says her work with cosmetics stopped her leaving industrial chemistry altogether. She had been disillusioned with previous jobs in which she had tested waste water and blood products. Having become fascinated with the chemistry of altering viscosity and researching skin benefits, she enjoys developing everyday products. “It's never become boring to me,” Conway says.

A foundation for make-up

Starting a research career in the personal-care industry requires a bachelor's degree in science at minimum, but a PhD or master's will greatly aid progression within companies, says Rob Snyder, owner of Aristo Creative Consultants, a long-time recruiter for personal-care, cosmetics and drug companies. Graduates with degrees in chemistry and chemical engineering, the largest group, tend to focus on areas such as toxicology, formulation, clinical trials, quality, claims, regulatory affairs and process development and manufacturing. Biologists work in areas such as skin care. More and more companies are looking for expertise in genomics, bioinformatics and biotechnology, as these fields become embedded in cosmetics product design. Physics-trained professionals are sought after in specialist areas such as shaving, where an understanding of friction is key.

And it's not just the big consumer corporations that hire scientists to research rouge. Supplier firms such as BASF and Dow Chemical value chemists, physicists and chemical engineers to do chemical formulations, test, find ingredients from all over the world and perform regulatory and intellectual-property work. Those with a background in environmental science may potentially apply their knowledge to the areas of regulation and safety.

Backgrounds certainly vary. Bridget Newman made a transition from researching snails' reproductive habits as an undergraduate to studying skin care at Aveda, where she works in the claims and performance laboratory. In her lab, a machine holds a comb up to a tress of hair, mechanically stroking it to test for inter-fibre friction. Newman, who earned her bachelor's degree in biology in 2008 from St Catherine University in St Paul, Minnesota, works to substantiate claims associated with finished products, prototypes and raw materials — backing up, for example, a company claim that texturizing cream increases hair smoothness by 50%. She wasn't sure of her next step after college. But after Newman posted her résumé on an online employment site a temp agency contacted her about a position. “You just don't realize how much science is in everyday products,” says Newman.

But many jobs are not advertised. “It's who you know, not what you know,” says Snyder, who advises attending meetings of the SCC and finding an internship, possibly via listings on the websites of consumer product companies and suppliers. Internships at large companies such as P&G or Johnson & Johnson can be lucrative, says Lochhead, and usually last about 10 weeks in the summer. Job seekers may also want to peruse a company's publication record. One can learn not only the major players in a company, but also the areas of science where the firm has focused its resources, notes Jeni Thomas, a senior scientist at P&G Beauty & Grooming.

"There's a lot of innovation. It's never become boring to me." - Mary Conway

There are also opportunities for scientists on the marketing and communications side of beauty care. Shiel, for example, circles the planet translating P&G's science into user-friendly product materials for different audiences, from Walmart customers to dermatologists to hair stylists. As part of his efforts to reach a global audience, he recently appeared as the main guest on a Pakistani TV talk show during which he spent 45 minutes fielding questions about the causes of dandruff. There are communication challenges, he says, pertaining to how different cultures perceive, and therefore treat, the flaky white stuff. As a scientist-communicator, he tries to be aware of cultural nuances associated with beauty care so that he can effectively educate the public about product benefits.

Aveda's Newman loves the quick pace of her job. “If you screw up, you gotta fix it right away,” she says. The rapid velocity at which the sector moves may be a surprise to some academics. “If you're not someone who can jump from question to question, then industrial science is not for you,” says Jay Tiesman, principal scientist and genomics group leader in P&G's biotechnology division

Cosmetic caveats

But that pace has a downside. Because product lifecycles are so fast — often moving from concept to consumer within six weeks to three months — scientific inquiry may be sacrificed in order to deliver a product to the marketplace quickly, says Lochhead. The hardcore scientists who truly love their craft usually won't have time to study a product's underlying mechanisms. If a product doesn't work, they swap ingredients for others that are known to work, rather than conducting a detailed examination. “This impinges on your creativity,” says Lochhead.

Sometimes ingredient swapping is a reaction to a health scare, which can be frustrating. For example, a news report once indicated that formaldehyde can cause cancer — and very small amounts of formaldehyde are used as a preservative in many products, including shampoo and various cosmetics. Once the public heard the report, companies quickly responded by having their scientists reformulate products to remove formaldehyde. They feared a consumer backlash, whether warranted or not. The removal of ingredients because of what Lochhead calls 'misinformation myths' creates “busy work for scientists” that can be frustrating. “More than annoying, it's an economic waste of intellectual resources,” he says. Industry regulatory hurdles and numerous lawsuits over patent rights can also be frustrating: short product lifecycles mean little time to file patents before a product goes to market, which increases the chances that ideas will be stolen. This does, however, create company positions in intellectual property, either as patent attorneys or as scientists supporting the firm's technology transfer.

Some scientists worry that a career in cosmetics research is a one-way ticket, making a move back to academia all but impossible. Lochhead, who joined the University of Southern Mississippi after more than 20 years in the industry, planned his return well in advance. He recommends staying engaged with academic colleagues, attending non-industry science conferences and giving talks on topics outside the cosmetics arena. Demonstrable teaching skills, a good publishing record and a penchant for garnering grants will all help with a potential transition. Both Lochhead and Wickett taught courses at the University of Cincinnati while toiling in industry.

Shiel, though, believes that the academic world has begun to appreciate the rigour of cosmetic science. “We're partnering more and more with academics on research,” he says, noting a recent collaborative clinical study with university scientists that compared the benefits of two skin regimens on wrinkle reduction.

Even in the recession, cosmetic companies are still hiring, albeit in smaller numbers, says Snyder — although he admits that 2009 was his industry's worst year ever for placing job seekers. The hiring process is slower, but the industry is bouncing back, Snyder suggests. “The industry tends to weather bad economic times better than most,” reckons John Bailey, executive vice-president of science and chief scientist for the Personal Care Products Council, a trade group for companies. “People always want to look their best.”