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  • Ocean Sciences Supplement
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Breaking waves

Nature volume 267, pages 769–774 (1977)Cite this article

Why do waves break ? What happens during breaking itself? More than a hundred years of mathematical studies still leave some aspects of these questions unanswered, although we are now understanding much about the processes leading up to breaking and the period after breaking has occurred.

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  1. Institute of Oceanographic Sciences, Wormley, Godalming, Surrey, UK

    E. D. Cokelet

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Cokelet, E. Breaking waves. Nature 267, 769–774 (1977). https://doi.org/10.1038/267769a0

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