Wave Energy: Sideways Flow and Losses by the Shore

Abstract

WHEN sea waves leave the open and enter a channel, they at once start to spend some of their energy along its shores, so that longshore strips of water, low energy values, start near the act poims of entrance. This sets up energy gradients atnwart the channel; and such gradients induce sideways flow of energy. The general effect is a drain of energy from mid-channel towards the shores; so that, well up channel, the strips of low energy will widen, and ultimately join, while the gradients will extend to correspond.