Abstract
THERE has always been some difficulty in accounting for the growth of waves under the action of wind. Do the individual waves grow in length, or does the wind raise waves of all lengths which separate in virtue of the dependence of wave-velocity on wave-length? The late Lord Rayleigh was in favour of the latter hypothesis, but I believe that the true explanation is that the waves do not increase in length unless they are breaking.
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MALLOCK, A. Growth of Waves. Nature 105, 777 (1920). https://doi.org/10.1038/105777a0
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DOI: https://doi.org/10.1038/105777a0
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