Abstract
RECENT contributions in NATURE on waves1 have been confined chiefly to cases in which the profiles are trochoidal, but they are not trochoidal when the steepness or the ratio of height of wave to depth of water is large, and adjustments are called for when the waves are near breaking point. The present purpose is to consider to what extent theory provides the clue, and what further information is required. The following abbreviations are used :
Article PDF
References
NATURE, 148, 226 (1941); 149, 219 and 584 (1942); 150, 581 (1942).
Stokes, "Math, and Phys. Papers", 1, 211.
Rayleigh, "Scientific Papers", 6, 13. (Rayleigh's "4/5" is misprint for "5/4".
Phil. Mag., (5) 36, 430 (1893).
Phil. Mag., (6) 23, 1055 (1913).
"Encyclopedia Metropolitana", "Tides and Waves", art. 208.
Stokes, "Math, and Phys. Papers", 1, 172.
Lamb, "Hydromechanics", 6th ed., 262.
Gaillard, "Wave Action", 120–123.
Stokes, "Math. and Phys. Papers", 1, 227.
Dunkerley, "Hydraulics", 2, 54.
Gaillard, "Wave Action", 45–46.
Rayleigh, "Scientific Papers", 6, 14.
NATURE, 149, 219 (1942).
Rayleigh, "Scientific Papers", 6, 8.
Rights and permissions
About this article
Cite this article
UNNA, P. THEORY OF SEA WAVES. Nature 151, 479–480 (1943). https://doi.org/10.1038/151479a0
Issue Date:
DOI: https://doi.org/10.1038/151479a0