Skip to main content

Thank you for visiting nature.com. You are using a browser version with limited support for CSS. To obtain the best experience, we recommend you use a more up to date browser (or turn off compatibility mode in Internet Explorer). In the meantime, to ensure continued support, we are displaying the site without styles and JavaScript.

  • Article
  • Published:

Coastal vulnerability across the Pacific dominated by El Niño/Southern Oscillation

Abstract

To predict future coastal hazards, it is important to quantify any links between climate drivers and spatial patterns of coastal change. However, most studies of future coastal vulnerability do not account for the dynamic components of coastal water levels during storms, notably wave-driven processes, storm surges and seasonal water level anomalies, although these components can add metres to water levels during extreme events. Here we synthesize multi-decadal, co-located data assimilated between 1979 and 2012 that describe wave climate, local water levels and coastal change for 48 beaches throughout the Pacific Ocean basin. We find that observed coastal erosion across the Pacific varies most closely with El Niño/Southern Oscillation, with a smaller influence from the Southern Annular Mode and the Pacific North American pattern. In the northern and southern Pacific Ocean, regional wave and water level anomalies are significantly correlated to a suite of climate indices, particularly during boreal winter; conditions in the northeast Pacific Ocean are often opposite to those in the western and southern Pacific. We conclude that, if projections for an increasing frequency of extreme El Niño and La Niña events over the twenty-first century are confirmed, then populated regions on opposite sides of the Pacific Ocean basin could be alternately exposed to extreme coastal erosion and flooding, independent of sea-level rise.

This is a preview of subscription content, access via your institution

Access options

Buy this article

Prices may be subject to local taxes which are calculated during checkout

Figure 1: Study site locations.
Figure 2: Shoreline erosion anomalies.
Figure 3: Wave energy flux and direction anomalies.
Figure 4: Water level anomalies.
Figure 5: Wave metrics and MEI correlations.

Similar content being viewed by others

References

  1. Nicholls, R. J. et al. Sea-level rise and its possible impacts given a ‘beyond 4 °C world’ in the twenty-first century. Phil. Trans. R. Soc. A 369, 161–181 (2011).

    Article  Google Scholar 

  2. Hallegate, S., Green, C., Nicholls, R. J. & Corfee-Morlot, J. Future flood losses in major coastal cities. Nature Clim. Change 3, 802–806 (2013).

    Article  Google Scholar 

  3. Young, I. R., Zieger, S. & Babanin, A. V. Global trends in wind speed and wave height. Science 332, 451–455 (2011).

    Article  Google Scholar 

  4. Mantua, N. J., Hare, S. R., Zhang, Y., Wallace, J. M. & Francis, R. C. A Pacific decadal climate oscillation with impacts on salmon. Bull. Am. Meteorol. Soc. 78, 1069–1079 (1997).

    Article  Google Scholar 

  5. Wolter, K. The Southern Oscillation in surface circulation and climate over the tropical Atlantic, Eastern Pacific, and Indian Oceans as captured by cluster analysis. J. Clim. Appl. Meteorol. 26, 540–558 (1987).

    Article  Google Scholar 

  6. Wolter, K. & Timlin, M. S. in Proc. 17th Clim. Diagnostics Work. 52–57 (CIMMS and the School of Meteorology, Univ. of Oklahoma, 1993).

    Google Scholar 

  7. Rogers, J. C. & van Loon, H. Spatial variability of sea level pressure and 500 mb height anomalies over the Southern Hemisphere. Mon. Weath. Rev. 110, 1375–1392 (1982).

    Article  Google Scholar 

  8. Hemer, M. A., Church, J. A. & Hunter, J. R. Variability and trends in the directional wave climate of the Southern Hemisphere. Int. J. Climatol. 30, 475–491 (2010).

    Google Scholar 

  9. Wallace, J. M. & Gutzler, D. S. Teleconnections in the geopotential height field during the Northern Hemisphere. Mon. Weath. Rev. 109, 784–812 (1981).

    Article  Google Scholar 

  10. Kuriyama, Y., Banno, M. & Suzuki, T. Linkages among interannual variations of shoreline, wave and climate at Hasaki, Japan. Geophys. Res. Lett. 39, L06604 (2012).

    Article  Google Scholar 

  11. Storlazzi, C. D. & Griggs, G. B. Influence of El Niño-Southern Oscillation (ENSO) events on the evolution of central California’s shoreline. Geol. Soc. Am. Bull. 112, 236–249 (2000).

    Article  Google Scholar 

  12. Sallenger, A. H. et al. Sea-cliff erosion as a function of beach changes and extreme wave runup during the 1997–1998 El Niño. Mar. Geol. 187, 279–297 (2002).

    Article  Google Scholar 

  13. Allan, J. C. & Komar, P. D. Climate controls on US West Coast erosion processes. J. Coast. Res. 22, 511–529 (2006).

    Article  Google Scholar 

  14. Abyswirigunawardena, D. S. & Walker, I. J. Sea level responses to climate variability and change in northern British Columbia. Atmosphere 46, 277–296 (2008).

    Google Scholar 

  15. Barnard, P. L. et al. The impact of the 2009–10 El Niño Modoki on U.S. West Coast beaches. Geophys. Res. Lett. 38, L13604 (2011).

    Google Scholar 

  16. Heathfield, D. K., Walker, I. J. & Atkinson, D. E. Erosive water level regime and climatic variability forcing of beach–dune systems on south-western Vancouver Island, British Columbia, Canada. Earth Surf. Land. 38, 751–762 (2013).

    Article  Google Scholar 

  17. Smith, R. K. & Benson, A. P. Beach profile monitoring: How frequent is sufficient? J. Coast. Res. 34, 573–579 (2001).

    Google Scholar 

  18. Ranasinghe, R., McLoughlin, R., Short, A. & Symonds, G. The Southern Oscillation Index, wave climate, and beach rotation. Mar. Geol. 204, 273–287 (2004).

    Article  Google Scholar 

  19. Harley, M. D., Turner, I. L., Short, A. D. & Ranasinghe, R. Interannual variability and controls of the Sydney wave climate. Int. J. Climatol. 30, 1322–1335 (2010).

    Google Scholar 

  20. Thom, B. G. in Landform Evolution in Australia: Canberra (eds Davies, J. L. & Williams, M. A.) 197–214 (Australian National University Press, 1978).

    Google Scholar 

  21. Bryant, E. Regional sea level, Southern Oscillation and beach change, New South Wales, Australia. Nature 305, 213–216 (1983).

    Article  Google Scholar 

  22. Clarke, D. J. & Eliot, I. G. Low-frequency variation in the seasonal intensity of coastal weather systems and sediment movement on the beachface of a sandy beach. Mar. Geol. 79, 23–39 (1988).

    Article  Google Scholar 

  23. Phinn, S. R. & Hastings, P. A. Southern Oscillation influences on the wave climate of south-eastern Australia. J. Coast. Res. 8, 579–592 (1992).

    Google Scholar 

  24. Dee, D. P. et al. The ERA-Interim reanalysis: Configuration and performance of the data assimilation system. Q. J. R. Meteorol. Soc. 137, 553–597 (2010).

    Article  Google Scholar 

  25. Shimura, T., Mori, N. & Mase, H. Ocean waves and teleconnection patterns in the Northern Hemisphere. J. Clim. 26, 8654–8670 (2013).

    Article  Google Scholar 

  26. Tokinaga, H. & Xie, S.-P. Wave- and anemometer-based sea surface wind (WASWind) for climate change analysis. J. Clim. 24, 267–285 (2011).

    Article  Google Scholar 

  27. Mori, N., Yasuda, T., Mase, H., Tom, T. & Oku, Y. Projections of extreme wave climate change under global warming. Hydrol. Res. Lett. 4, 15–19 (2010).

    Article  Google Scholar 

  28. Dobrynin, M., Murawsky, J. & Yang, S. Evolution of the global wind wave climate in CMIP5 experiments. Geophys. Res. Lett. 39, L18606 (2012).

    Article  Google Scholar 

  29. Hemer, M. A., Fan, Y., Mori, N., Semedo, A. & Wang, X. L. Projected changes in wave climate from a multi-model ensemble. Nature Clim. Change 3, 471–476 (2013).

    Article  Google Scholar 

  30. Semedo, A. et al. Projection of global wave climate change toward the end of the twenty-first century. J. Clim. 26, 8269–8288 (2013).

    Article  Google Scholar 

  31. Previdi, M. & Liepert, B. G. Annular modes of Hadley cell expansion under global warming. Geophys. Res. Lett. 34, L22701 (2007).

    Article  Google Scholar 

  32. Arblaster, J. M., Meehl, G. A. & Karoly, D. J. Future climate change in the Southern Hemisphere. Competing effects of ozone and greenhouse gases. Geophys. Res. Lett. 38, L02701 (2011).

    Article  Google Scholar 

  33. Collins, M. et al. The impact of global warming on the tropical Pacific Ocean and El Niño. Nature Geosci. 3, 391–397 (2010).

    Article  Google Scholar 

  34. Stevenson, S. L. Significant changes to ENSO strength and impacts in the twenty-first century: Results from CMIP5. Geophys. Res. Lett. 39, L17703 (2012).

    Article  Google Scholar 

  35. Cai, W. et al. Increasing frequency of extreme El Niño events due to greenhouse warming. Nature Clim. Change 4, 111–116 (2014).

    Article  Google Scholar 

  36. WCRP Coupled Model Intercomparison Project Phase 5—CMIP5. CLIVAR Exchanges 16 (Special issue), 1–52 (2011)

  37. Cai, W. et al. Increased frequency of La Niña events under greenhouse warming. Nature Clim. Change 5, 132–137 (2015).

    Article  Google Scholar 

  38. L’Heureux, M. L., Lee, S. & Lyon, B. Recent multidecadal strengthening of the Walker Circulation across the tropical Pacific. Nature Clim. Change 3, 571–576 (2013).

    Article  Google Scholar 

  39. Erikson, L. H., Hegermiller, C. A., Barnard, P. L., Ruggiero, P. & van Ormondt, M. Projected wave conditions in the Eastern North Pacific under the influence of two CMIP5 climate scenarios. Ocean Model. (2015).

  40. Harley, M. D., Barnard, P. L. & Turner, I. L. Coastal Sediments 2015: The Proceedings of the Coastal Sediments 2015 (World Scientific, 2015).

    Google Scholar 

Download references

Acknowledgements

Funding for this project was provided by the Coastal and Marine Geology Program of the United States Geological Survey. California beach survey data collection was funded by the California Department of Boating and Waterways and the United States Army Corps of Engineers. Many thanks to C. Fletcher, A. Gibbs and B. Richmond for providing beach survey data from Hawaii. Waikato Regional Council and Hawkes Bay Regional Council provided the New Zealand data. Australian survey data collection in New South Wales was supported by the Australian Research Council and Warringah Council, with Queensland data provided by Gold Coast City Council. Wave and water level data for these sites was supplied by Manly Hydraulics Laboratory (New South Wales) and Gold Coast City Council (Queensland).

Author information

Authors and Affiliations

Authors

Contributions

P.L.B. and A.D.S. developed the original concept for this study. P.L.B. directed the analysis and wrote the original version of this paper. M.D.H., S.V. and E.R.-G., analysed the data. All authors contributed to interpreting results and improvement of this paper.

Corresponding author

Correspondence to Patrick L. Barnard.

Ethics declarations

Competing interests

The authors declare no competing financial interests.

Supplementary information

Supplementary Information

Supplementary Information (PDF 7477 kb)

Supplementary Information

Supplementary Information (XLSX 74 kb)

Supplementary Information

Supplementary Information (XLSX 22 kb)

Supplementary Information

Supplementary Information (XLSX 320 kb)

Supplementary Information

Supplementary Information (XLSX 92 kb)

Rights and permissions

Reprints and permissions

About this article

Check for updates. Verify currency and authenticity via CrossMark

Cite this article

Barnard, P., Short, A., Harley, M. et al. Coastal vulnerability across the Pacific dominated by El Niño/Southern Oscillation. Nature Geosci 8, 801–807 (2015). https://doi.org/10.1038/ngeo2539

Download citation

  • Received:

  • Accepted:

  • Published:

  • Issue Date:

  • DOI: https://doi.org/10.1038/ngeo2539

Search

Quick links

Nature Briefing

Sign up for the Nature Briefing newsletter — what matters in science, free to your inbox daily.

Get the most important science stories of the day, free in your inbox. Sign up for Nature Briefing