Abstract
THE effect of tidal streams on swell was discussed in NATURE of February 21, p. 219, the standard for comparison being the slack-water state. Estimates depended on the fact that, in swell, waves retain their identities as individuals. But wind-forced waves cannot do so, even when there is no change in stream, because, with speed proportional to root of length, their periods lengthen as they grow-see below-and in so far as this affects the issue the arguments for swell may not hold good. But stream, tidal or otherwise, can also influence rate of growth, for which no slack-water standard is available, the laws of growth being still unknown. It is therefore necessary to improvise.
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Change history
04 July 1942
An Erratum to this paper has been published: https://doi.org/10.1038/150020e0
References
Vaughan Cornish, "Waves of the Sea", 87.
Jeffreys, H., Proc. Roy. Soc., A, 107, 189.
Stevenson, Thomas, "The Design and Construction of Harbours" 2nd ed., 22–26.
Phil. Mag., (6) 23, 1055 (1913).
Gaillard, "Wave Action", 32, 76.
See also Vaughan Cornish, "Waves of the Sea", 121.
Stokes, "Math, and Phys. Papers", 3, 42 (with footnote).
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UNNA, P. SEA WAVES: THEIR GROWTH AND SUBSIDENCE. Nature 149, 584–585 (1942). https://doi.org/10.1038/149584a0
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DOI: https://doi.org/10.1038/149584a0
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