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SEA WAVES: THEIR GROWTH AND SUBSIDENCE

Nature volume 149, pages 584585 (23 May 1942) | Download Citation

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Abstract

THE effect of tidal streams on swell was discussed in NATURE of February 21, p. 219, the standard for comparison being the slack-water state. Estimates depended on the fact that, in swell, waves retain their identities as individuals. But wind-forced waves cannot do so, even when there is no change in stream, because, with speed proportional to root of length, their periods lengthen as they grow-see below-and in so far as this affects the issue the arguments for swell may not hold good. But stream, tidal or otherwise, can also influence rate of growth, for which no slack-water standard is available, the laws of growth being still unknown. It is therefore necessary to improvise.

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References

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    , "Waves of the Sea", 87.

  2. 2.

    , Proc. Roy. Soc., A, 107, 189.

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    , "The Design and Construction of Harbours" 2nd ed., 22–26.

  4. 4.

    Phil. Mag., (6) 23, 1055 (1913).

  5. 5.

    , "Wave Action", 32, 76.

  6. 6.

    See also , "Waves of the Sea", 121.

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    , "Math, and Phys. Papers", 3, 42 (with footnote).

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DOI

https://doi.org/10.1038/149584a0

Authors

  1. Search for P. J. H. UNNA in:

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