Original Article

Journal of Investigative Dermatology (1986) 86, 598–602; doi:10.1111/1523-1747.ep12355351

Stratum Corneum Lipid Abnormalities in Surfactant-Induced Dry Scaly Skin

Andrew W Fulmer and Gregory J Kramer

The Procter & Gamble Company, Beauty Care Division, Cincinnati, Ohio, U.S.A.

Received 26 August 1985; Accepted 11 October 1985.

Top

Abstract

Sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS) has been used to induce a dry scaly skin condition in human subjects. Measurements of stratum (s.) corneum hydration, scaliness, and lipid composition reveal in vivo surfactant perturbations on desquamation. Subjects (n = 10) were briefly treated daily with a 4% aqueous solution of SDS on one lower leg over a period of 2 weeks. The other control leg received no treatments. At the end of the treatment period, both lower legs were evaluated for hydration using an electrical impedance technique and examined by an independent dermatologist using a visually based grading scale for surface roughness and scaliness. Shave biopsies were then excised from each lower leg for analysis of s. corneum lipids. Treatment resulted in decreased s. corneum hydration and increased surface scale/roughness. These physical changes were accompanied by significant changes in s. corneum lipid composition. While surfactant treatments did not alter the total quantity of lipids per gram s. corneum protein, significant changes in specific lipid classes were observed. The free cholesterol to cholesterol ester ratio increased while the quantity of total sterols remained constant. The distribution of certain ceramide species were altered while the quantity of total ceramides remained constant. Free fatty acids were resolved into 2 distinct bands, only one of which diminished upon treatment. These results are interpreted in terms of a model for surfactant-induced perturbation of keratinization which leads to abnormal s. corneum lipids and altered desquamation.

Top

References

  1. Michaels, AS, Chandrasekaran, SK, Shaw, JE: Drug permeation through human skin. Theory and in vitro experimental measurement. Am Inst Chem Eng J 1975 21: 985–996,  | ChemPort |
  2. Elias, PM: Epidermal lipids, barrier function, and desquamation. J Invest Dermatol 1983 80: 44–49,  | Article | PubMed | ChemPort |
  3. Elias, PM: Lipids and the epidermal permeability barrier. Arch Dermatol Res 1981 270: 95–117,  | Article | PubMed | ISI | ChemPort |
  4. Smith, WP, Christensen, MS, Nacht, S, Gans, EH: Effect of lipids on the aggregation and permeability of human stratum corneum. J Invest Dermatol 1982 78: 7–11,  | Article | PubMed | ChemPort |
  5. Elias, PM, Lampe, MA, Chung, T-C, Williams, ML: Diazecholesterol-induced ichthyosis in the hairless mouse. Lab Invest 1983 48: 565–577,  | PubMed | ChemPort |
  6. Williams, ML, Elias, PM: N-alkanes in normal and pathological human scale. Biochem Biophys Res Commun 1982 107: 322–328,  | Article | PubMed | ChemPort |
  7. Epstein, EH Jr, Williams, ML, Elias, PM: Steroid sulfatase, X-linked ichthyosis, and stratum corneum cell cohesion. Arch Dermatol 1981 117: 761–763,  | Article | PubMed | ISI | ChemPort |
  8. Schmidt, C, Penneys, NS, Ziboh, VA, Liem, L, Schlossberg, T: Cholesterol and cholesteryl ester content in normal and pathologic scale. J Invest Dermatol 1977 68: 206–209,  | Article | PubMed | ChemPort |
  9. Long, SA, Weirtz, PW, Strausss, JS, Downing, DT: Human stratum corneum polar lipids and desquamation. Arch Dermatol Res 1985 277: 284–287,  | Article | PubMed | ISI | ChemPort |
  10. Fisher, LB, Maibach, HI: Effect of some irritants on human epidermal mitosis. Contant Dermatitis 1975 1: 273–276,  | ChemPort |
  11. Tovell, PWA, Weaver, AC, Hope, J, Sprott, WE: The action of sodium lauryl sulphate on rat skin-an ultrastructural study. Br J Dermatol 1974 90: 501–506,  | PubMed | ChemPort |
  12. Prottey, C, Ferguson, T: Factors which determine the skin irritation potential of soaps and detergents. J Soc Cosmer Chem 1975 26: 29–46,  | ChemPort |
  13. Imokawa, G: Comparative study on the mechanism of irritation by sulfate and phosphate type of anionic surfactants. J Soc cosmet Chem 1980 31: 45–66,  | ChemPort |
  14. Dunlap, FE: Clinical evaluation of a highly effective hand and body lotion. Cur Ther Res Clin Exp 1984 35: 72–77,
  15. Tagami, H, Ohi, M, Iwatsuki, K, Kanamaru, Y, Yamada, M, Ichijo, B: Evaluation of the skin surface hydration in vivo by electrical measurement. J invest Dermatol 1981 75: 500–507,
  16. Tagami, H: Electrical measurement of the water content of the skin surface. Cosmetics and Toiletries 1982 97: 39–47,
  17. Salter, DC: Water absorption by the stratum corneum studied using electrical impedance measurements. Presented at the 4th International Symposium on Bioengineering and the Skin 1983 Besancon, France, September
  18. Hsia, SL: Lipid syntheis from acetate I-14C by suction blister epidermis and other skin components. Proc Soc Exp Biol Med 1970 135: 285–289,  | PubMed | ISI | ChemPort |
  19. Gray, GM: Different populations of pig epidermal cells: isolation and lipid composition. Lipid Res 1975 16: 441–446,  | ChemPort |
  20. Folch, J, Lees, M, Sloane-Stanley, GH: A simple method for isolation and purification of total lipids from animal tissues. J Biol Chem 1957 226: 497–501,  | PubMed | ISI | ChemPort |
  21. Lowry, OH, Rosebrough, NT, Farr, AL, Randall, RJ: Protein measurement with the Folin phenol reagent. J Biol Chem 1951 193: 265–275,  | PubMed | ISI | ChemPort |
  22. Grayson, S, Elias, PM: Isolation and lipid biochemical characterization of stratum corneum membrane complexes: implications for the cutaneous permeability barrier. J Invest Dermatol 1982 78: 128–135,  | Article | PubMed | ISI | ChemPort |
  23. Wertz, PW, Downing, DT: Ceramides of pig epidermis: structure determination. J Lipid Res 1983 24: 759–765,  | PubMed | ISI | ChemPort |
  24. Blank, LH, Shappirio, EB: The water content of the stratum corneum, effect of previous contant with aqueous solutions of soaps and detergents. J Invest Dermatol 1955 25: 391–401,  | PubMed | ISI | ChemPort |
  25. Suskind, SR, Meister, MM, Scheen, SR: Cutaneous effect of household synthetic detergents and soaps. Arch Dermatol 1963 88: 117–124,  | PubMed |
  26. Freinkel, RK, Aso, K: Esterificaiton of cholesterol in the skin. J Invest Dermatol 1969 52: 148–154,  | PubMed | ISI | ChemPort |
  27. Silveira, SR, Hadler, WA: Histochemical aspects concerning the synthesis and the fate of cholesterol into the epidermis. Acta Histochem 1984 74: 145–155,  | PubMed | ChemPort |
  28. Green, RS, Downing, DT, Pochi, PE, Strauss, TS: Anatomical variation in the amount and composition of human skin surface lipid. J Invest Dermatol 1970 54: 240–247,  | PubMed | ChemPort |
  29. Epstein, EH, Williams, ML, Elias, PM: Steroid sulfatase, X-linked ichthyosis, and stratum corneum cell cobesion. Arch Dermatol 1981 117: 761–763,  | Article | PubMed | ISI | ChemPort |
  30. Rehfeld, SJ, Elias, PM: Mammalian stratum corneum contains physiologic lipid thermal transitions. J Invest Dermatol 1982 79: 1–3,  | Article | PubMed | ChemPort |
  31. Singer, EJ, Vinson, LJ: The water-binding properties of skin. Proc Sci Sect Toilet Goods Assoc 1966 46: 29–33,
  32. Middleton, JD: The mechanism of action of surfactants on the water binding properties of isolation stratum corneum. J Soc Cosmet Chemists 1969 20: 399–412,

Extra navigation

.
ADVERTISEMENT